If you are interested in bouldering in Yosemite Valley, here are a few routes that I would suggest. This Monday, I had the opportunity to climb all of these boulders that are going to be covered in this article. Due to a little confusion and getting lost looking for the older Half Dome Village boulders, I thought that an article about our trip might interest and/or help people.
The best spot to start your trip is in the Half Dome Village (old name is Curry Village). After warming up at Half Dome Village, you can go anywhere in the valley. However, I would suggest making your way over to Camp 4 because I believe you owe yourself the experience to touch the same rock that has shaped history. All the Stone masters, Stone Monkeys, and climbing legends have all climbed here.
This is a rough map that shows the different climbing areas on the Half Dome Village map. The new climbing area is right near the pool and the amphitheater. This area will be very easy to find since it is located right near the parking lot. The older climbing area will be a little more tricky to find since the village has changed a bit since the Yosemite Bouldering Guide was released. To find the older area, you will follow the arrow off the map and keep walking in that direction until you come across where the wood cabins turn into condos. The bouldering area is slightly hidden, but it is behind a little service building near the reserved parking lot. The camp map does not show this area.
Photo: John Wang , Edward Hsu, Joe Wang, Dylan Williams
This is the Tile Boulder in Half Dome Village. This rock is not in the Yosemite Bouldering guide book due to its age. This bouldering field is located directly behind the pool and bathrooms that are closest to the main parking lot in the Village. You can locate this boulder very easily due to it having a tile foundation as the landing area. There are several routes on the rock ranging from VB to V5. This new area is the best place to warm up and have a lot of fun.
Photo: Dylan Williams
The image above shows the hardest route on the Tile Boulder V5 consisting of a sit start that traverses right across a rail and some crimps.
Photo: Edward Hsu , Joe Wang
Once you are all warmed up you should make your way over to the more established and older bouldering zone in the Half Dome Village. This is the home of Zorro, one of the most liked routes in the Village. This area is a little tricky to get to get to, so hopefully the map in the beginning helps. However, I believe this route is worth looking for because it is such a fun climb. It starts on a rail that traverses right to a big dynamic move to the top.
After you warm up, I urge you to take some time to explore the valley. I would suggest going to camp 4 in order to take in all the history that has gone down there. The bouldering is next level. The boulders in camp 4 are much easier to locate if you have the Yosemite Bouldering Guide Book. This area is home to some amazing historical routes such as Midnight Lightning , Bacher Cracker, Cocaine Corner, and many more.
Photo: Edward Hsu
Photo: John Wang
Above are a few pictures of Initial Friction V1. This climb is a tricky slab boulder that will make your heart flutter. You can easily spend many attempts at this climb.
Photo: Edward Hsu
This is another classic climb, Kor Problem V3 located in the Eastern area of Camp 4. Starting just left of the large tree, you work your way to the middle of the wall to a thin crimp line. Once you get to this crimp line, you traverse left to the top of the boulder.
Thank you for taking time out of your day to read this article. I will be writing about the climbing trips that the Vanderwall Climbing Ambassadors/Team go on in the future. Please email us if you have any questions about this article or want to see more in the future.